Visit: 2nd, 3rd, 5th April 2017
Vienna had stood out for a long time as a major European city I wanted to visit. The Easter break afforded Natalie and me an opportunity to spend a couple of nights abroad, so I decided to plan a four day trip to Austria. The idea was to visit Vienna and travel to the southern city of Graz for a night before returning to the capital for the flight home.
We arrived on a Sunday morning at a gleaming Flughafen Wien and took a bus into town, followed by a long, long walk (punctuated by pilsner) to our hotel. Our first action was to catch a tram into the centre of town and seek out one of Vienna’s main sights, the Kunsthistorisches Museum.
This museum is one of Europe’s most important, and it did not disappoint. It has, I think, the finest collection of paintings by the Flemish painter Pieter Breugel – including many of his most famous works such as ‘The Fight Between Carnival and Lent’. One of the other highlights was the grand entrance staircase, leading to one of the more impressive cafés I have seen.
After the KHM we walked towards Vienna’s centre as the evening drew in. I was impressed with its grandeur – it definitely has the aura of an imperial city, as befits the capital of the former Habsburg Empire. All around are imposing state buildings and Classical statues. Bill Bryson once wrote that if aliens were to land on Earth and seek out its capital they would surely assume it was Vienna.
Vienna is not a crowded place, which feels odd coming from London. It is also not extortionately expensive to eat in. Since we were trying to keep the budget down we ate exclusively in Gasthauses, or Germanic taverns serving beer and food. The cuisine in this country isn’t haute, so you can find some of the best food at very reasonable prices. Dishes we ate included fried liver, schnitzel and goulash.
The city’s cathedral, or Domkirche, is a masterpiece of the Gothic, with a spire that puts me in mind of the Sagrada Familia. Inside, most of the church was weirdly fenced off so we couldn’t get a proper look around.
One of our main destinations during our time in Vienna was the Schönbrunn Palace, in the city’s southwest. But because that is a World Heritage Site in its own right it gets a separate post. Also covered separately is our one-night excursion along the Semmering Railway to Graz. When we came back to Vienna on the Thursday afternoon we had a little time to spare in the vicinity of the city’s main railway station. Fortunately one of Vienna’s major sites, the Belvedere palace, is within ten minutes’ walking distance.
Located on a high point, the palace’s gardens decline gently into the distance toward a vista of the rest of the city. I preferred this palace’s exterior to that of Schönbrunn, probably because of its far more ornate Baroque styling. If I one day come back to this beautiful city on the Danube I shall have to give it a proper visit.